RPM Italian
601 Massachusetts Ave., NW
Glitzy owners—who include reality-TV personalities Giuliana and Bill Rancic—and a black-windowed Vegas vibe have a way of making discerning eaters nervous. And while there are areas to avoid on RPM’s Italian menu (bill-padding antipasti such as lobster caprese salad and octopus with chickpeas, for instance), the place does right by the Italian-American repertoire. Our tactic: Order pastas with abandon—a simple, flavor-bursting linguine pomodoro, a strapping carbonara—and share one of the oversize entrées, like the gigantic chicken Parm.