Pizzeria Portofino on the river reviewed
A new full-service restaurant from Lettuce Entertain You, a pizza-and-pasta people-pleaser, instantly became the go-to riverside dining spot when it opened in July.
A new full-service restaurant from Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises named Pizzeria Portofino, a pizza-and-pasta people-pleaser, instantly became the go-to riverside dining spot when it opened in July. It squeezes every drop out of its river adjacency, going deep into painting the river as the Riviera. Summery drinks, beachy umbrellas and loads of yachty blue stripes (on chairs, napkins, servers’ clothing) put the center of gravity on the 72-seat patio. You can dock your boat there.
But though summer is the theme, it’s perfectly appropriate (if loud inside) for a client lunch.
As the first of three components in Lettuce’s dining options all in the same building, Pizzeria Portofino displays Lettuce’s signature tight conceptualization. Here, the concept is pleasant food in a pleasant setting, so the food situates itself as the opposite of scary. Even less-familiar dishes such as fried zucchini flowers ($13) stay safe, filled with melted cheese and served with a dipping sauce, like mozzarella sticks. The one exception, the profiteroles bianco dessert ($9), melanged together flavors of hazelnut, white chocolate, dark chocolate and salt, and successfully kept all those balls in the air.