With debut restaurants from young-gun chefs and new projects from Chicago legends, this great dining city stays on its toes.

Booth One

This Gold Coast newcomer, opened in the Ambassador Chicago in late 2017, began its life over 80 years ago as the iconic and oh-so-exclusive Pump Room — a favorite of visiting stars from Josephine Baker to Mick Jagger. It’s been revived in style following a rebrand of the hotel, with chef Doug Psaltis turning out refined dishes that hearken back to the original restaurant’s heyday: lobster Louie, Dover sole, and even an original 1954 cheesecake recipe. boothone.com; entrées $19-$49.