Michael Nagrant takes a chance on Aba and finds a lot to like in an “intoxicating” environment. Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises’ new West Loop spot boasts a “glorious” open terrace that captures the “very essence of Chicago summer.” CJ Jacobson’s food is equally delightful. His red beet tzatziki is better than the average babcia’s, “bursting with horseradish spice and the tangy spurt of finger limes (it’s like fruit caviar).” Sesame shrimp is “encrusted and flaky like Rip’N Chick’N from Popeyes” and served with a “herbaceous” hot sauce, while crème brulee pie is a “smart revival of the classic.” On the beverage side, the “refreshing” Domaine Skouras Moschofilero is “basically like the wine equivalent of Budweiser in Greece.” [Michael Nagrant]