French, Without the Accent
Paris Club, you see, replaced Brasserie Jo, and I've loved that restaurant ever since it opened in 1995 (Brasserie Jo received the James Beard Foundation award for best new restaurant, so I wasn't the only fan). I loved its bustle, the spot-on decor that included behind-the-banquette hat shelves, and Jean Joho's terrific food.
Just thinking about the place makes me long for a piece of tart flambee, a favorite happy-hour bar nibble.
Now the space sports a modern, industrial-loft look, wherein ductwork and conduit are visible against a black-ceiling background. There are unadorned wood tables, shiny black and white wall tiles — it's attractive, but in a bet-hedging, neutral way. If the concept changed overnight to Mediterranean seafood, the decor would work still.
But even Joho, who remains a partner in the new venture, acknowledged that it was time for a change.
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